andrew nyce designs

Mokume To Suit Your Budget!

Glacial Mist Palladium Mokume Gane

[Glacial Mist Palladium Mokume Gane]

Andrew Nyce Designs has two lower cost Mokume Gane compositions to suit your budget. The first, Ashes and Snow Palladium, was introduced last year. In late January, we launched Glacial Mist Palladium.

Ashes and Snow Platinum comprises layers of 950 Platinum, 14K Palladium White Gold, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Ashes and Snow Palladium contains 950 Palladium in place of 950 Platinum and is much lower in cost than Ashes and Snow Platinum.

Glacial Mist PW comprises layers of 14K Palladium White Gold and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Glacial Mist Palladium contains 950 Palladium in place of Palladium White Gold and is lower in cost than Glacial Mist PW. It is also slightly lighter in appearance than Glacial Mist PW.

Introducing The Leading Edge Collection

Leading Edge Mokume Gane Wedding Rings[Leading Edge Mokume Gane Wedding and Commitment Rings]

Andrew Nyce Designs is introducing a new Collection to its line of Mokume Gane and Damascus Steel Wedding and Commitment rings. The Leading Edge Collection is defined by rounded raised edges that match the height of the domed profile of the Mokume Gane or Damascus Steel band.

Leading Edge Damascus Steel Wedding Rings

[Leading Edge Damascus Stainless Steel Wedding and Commitment Rings]

If a prominently curved ring surface is more your style, the Leading Edge Collection is the right match. Your favorite Mokume Gane or Damascus Stainless Steel band is outlined with a liner and rounded raised edges made from Gold, Platinum, or Palladium to create a three-dimensional work of art. A domed profile is standard for Leading Edge rings and adds even more depth.

For an elegant ring with a little more edge, check out our Leading Edge Mokume Gane and Damascus Steel wedding and commitment rings.

Something Blue: Blue Flame Jewelry

Blue Flame Rings by Andrew Nyce Designs

[Blue Flame Rings set in an 18K gold channel (left) and platinum-enhanced sterling silver channel (right) ]

About 7 years ago, I began making jewelry using a unique process that incorporated an oxyacetylene torch to sculpt the surface of semi-solid silver alloys into ripples and waves. I enjoyed the challenge of this work and created some strikingly beautiful jewelry. However, I became so intensely interested in Mokume Gane and Damascus that I set this third jewelry-making technique aside. Until now. I have returned to the idea of creating jewelry with this process under the name Blue Flame.

Blue Flame Jewelry is created by sculpting silver alloys into ripples and waves using an intense oxyacetylene (blue) flame. The initial step involves subjecting a specially formulated sheet of silver alloy to a pre-oxidation and acid-etching treatment. This treatment creates a thin layer of pure silver on the surface of the silver alloy sheet.

Using an oxyacetylene flame, I preheat the sheet to just below the point where the interior of the silver alloy sheet begins to melt. The surface layer of pure silver, which has a higher melting point, remains solid. The challenge is to prevent the liquid metal alloy from “burning” through the solid pure silver layer. As I move the oxyacetylene flame across the sheet, liquid/solid regions are created which, in turn, create the ripples and waves as the alloy beneath the pure solid silver alternately melts and solidifies. The size of the flame and the pre-oxidation conditions determine the size of the surface features. Waves, ripples, swirls and even writing are possible in various scales with this technique.

Although this technique, also known as reticulation, can be used on gold or silver alloys, I have chosen to focus my efforts in the jewelry studio on silver alloys embraced in a channel of precious metal alloys. My initial emphasis will be on making rings, the first of which will be offered through one of our retailers, Taboo Studio in San Diego, California. The plan is to expand into more of our retail outlets into next year. In late 2010, I intend to offer other Blue Flame jewelry, such as pendants and earrings.

If you have any questions or would like more information about Blue Flame rings, please contact us.

Flame-Sculpted Necklace by Andrew Nyce Designs[Flame-sculpted necklace handcrafted by Andrew Nyce Designs in 2003]

Beauty in Simplicity: The Essentials Collection of Damascus Steel Rings

Essentials Damascus Stainless Steel Rings

Andrew Nyce Designs announces the launch of a new Collection for our Damascus Stainless Steel rings. For those who prefer a classic, uncomplicated look, the Damascus Essentials Collection is a simple, yet elegant design. The distinctive Damascus pattern is the star of this design and can be seen from all sides of the ring. The Essentials Collection of Damascus rings is a counterpart to our Mokume Essentials Collection.

Rings in the Essentials Collection mirror the look of our JET Damascus Men’s line. However, Essentials rings come in a broader range of widths (from 4mm to 10mm) compared to the JET rings (8mm to 10mm), which are geared toward the wider aesthetics of a men’s ring. Essentials rings also do not have the black oxide coating, which is standard on most of our Men’s rings. The ring profile is typically domed across the top to maintain the rugged beauty of this collection.

The following design options are available for rings in the Damascus Essentials Collection:

Adding a Liner
An inner liner adds to the strength and longevity of the ring and creates a two-dimensional contrast that complements the steel blue-gray of the Damascus band.

Adding a Black Oxide Coating
A black oxide coating creates a striking contrast for the etched surface of the Damascus pattern.

Please note that it is possible to order an Essentials ring with edges only. You must fill out a Custom Quote Form in order to select this option. Edges enable the Damascus band to stand out by framing it either in warm, vibrant colors (yellow or red gold) or cool, distinguished colors (white gold, platinum or palladium). Framing the band with gold, platinum or palladium only adds to its rarity, making it more of an expression of your personality and character.

Something New: The Meridian Collection

Meridian Collection of Damascus Steel and Mokume Gane rings

[left to right, Damascus Meridian with hand-textured inlaid band, Damascus Meridian Ultra, Mokume Meridian]

Andrew Nyce Designs formally introduces our Meridian Collection of Mokume Gane and Damascus Stainless Steel wedding, anniversary, and commitment rings. The defining feature of this Collection is an inlaid band of gold, platinum or palladium alloy that encircles the surface of the ring. This precious metal meridian neatly bisects the distinctive Mokume Gane and Damascus Steel patterns. Meridian rings were inspired by our JET Racer Damascus Men’s line.

A meridian is an imaginary arc on the Earth’s surface connecting the North and South geographic poles. All locations along the same meridian have the same longitude. A meridian also can be defined as pathways through the body along which vital energy circulates. Both of these definitions speak to the concept of connectedness, whether it is between locations separated by vast distances on the Earth, within our own bodies, or on the surface of a ring. The Meridian Collection takes this concept of connectedness and wraps it around your finger.

In making a Meridian ring, the starting point is a plain Damascus Steel or Mokume Gane band. A narrow channel is formed along the centerline of the band using either hand tools or a mini lathe. Then, a precious metal alloy square wire is fitted into to the channel and soldered in place.

There are two styles available for Damascus rings: Meridian and Meridian Ultra. The standard Damascus Meridian ring has an inlaid band that is proportional to the overall width of the ring. Meridian Ultra has a narrower inlaid band compared to the standard Meridian style. Only Damascus Meridian rings have the option of a hand-textured inlaid band. There is one style available for Meridian Mokume Gane rings.

New Banded Pattern Mokume

Painted Desert Banded Mokume Gane

Andrew Nyce Designs continues to expand its offerings of patterned Mokume Gane rings. In addition to twist-patterned and random-patterned (Contour) rings, we have developed a new banded patterning technique for our line-up of Mokume Gane wedding, commitment, engagement and fashion rings.

Banded-patterning can be applied to any two-, three-, or four-tone twist pattern Mokume composition (color palette) including Glacial Mist, Ashes and Snow, Santa Fe, or Maui Sunset. Pictured above is Painted Desert Mokume, one of our three-tone Mokume color palettes.

As you can see, Banded Mokume rings have subtle wave-like patterns such as those found in the banded sandstone formations in Paria Canyon, Arizona. The design offers simplicity and elegance.

These gentle undulations will appear different depending upon the width of the ring and the Mokume color palette selected. Banded Mokume rings without the undulations are available upon request for those who prefer straight-line banded patterning.

The starting material for the banded patterning is the pattern found on the side of standard twist pattern Mokume billets. These billets consist of horizontal layers of different colored precious metal alloys in varying thicknesses depending upon which color palette is being used. However, Banded patterned billets do not require any twisting or re-rolling as the twist-patterned billets do. The small undulations are made by selectively forging the Mokume billet.

Because Banded Mokume rings require less time to process, pricing for these rings is up to 20% less than their twist-pattern Mokume counterparts.