Andrew Nyce Designs has added a new Stainless Steel Mokume composition to our Mokume Gane Men’s ring lineup. Golden Light Mokume is composed of stainless steel and 18K yellow gold. Golden Light Mokume features a stainless steel channel, which is the standard for all Mokume Gane rings in the Men’s Collection.

Andrew’s research in the jewelry studio enabled him to engineer this innovative marriage of precious metal alloy and stainless steel. Like Shadows and Light Mokume, our stainless steel and platinum-enhanced sterling silver composition, Golden Light Mokume is made with a random pattern. Both the Golden Light and Shadows and Light Men’s rings are relief polished with an aggressive abrasive that erodes away the precious metal alloys at a faster rate than either the 316L or 304L Stainless Steel. The result is a contoured relief on the surface of the ring that accentuates the pattern.

The Golden Light Mokume Gane Men’s ring would be a fine accessory for stainless steel and gold watches. Andrew is currently working on a red gold stainless steel Mokume composition that we intend to add to the Men’s Collection by year’s end.

[left to right, Damascus Meridian with hand-textured inlaid band, Damascus Meridian Ultra, Mokume Meridian]

Andrew Nyce Designs formally introduces our Meridian Collection of Mokume Gane and Damascus Stainless Steel wedding, anniversary, and commitment rings. The defining feature of this Collection is an inlaid band of gold, platinum or palladium alloy that encircles the surface of the ring. This precious metal meridian neatly bisects the distinctive Mokume Gane and Damascus Steel patterns. Meridian rings were inspired by our JET Racer Damascus Men’s line.

A meridian is an imaginary arc on the Earth’s surface connecting the North and South geographic poles. All locations along the same meridian have the same longitude. A meridian also can be defined as pathways through the body along which vital energy circulates. Both of these definitions speak to the concept of connectedness, whether it is between locations separated by vast distances on the Earth, within our own bodies, or on the surface of a ring. The Meridian Collection takes this concept of connectedness and wraps it around your finger.

In making a Meridian ring, the starting point is a plain Damascus Steel or Mokume Gane band. A narrow channel is formed along the centerline of the band using either hand tools or a mini lathe. Then, a precious metal alloy square wire is fitted into to the channel and soldered in place.

There are two styles available for Damascus rings: Meridian and Meridian Ultra. The standard Damascus Meridian ring has an inlaid band that is proportional to the overall width of the ring. Meridian Ultra has a narrower inlaid band compared to the standard Meridian style. Only Damascus Meridian rings have the option of a hand-textured inlaid band. There is one style available for Meridian Mokume Gane rings.

Andrew Nyce Designs is now offering a new, lower cost version of our Ashes and Snow Mokume. Ashes and Snow Mokume comprises alternating layers of precious metals; specifically, layers of 950 platinum, 14K palladium white gold, and platinum-enhanced sterling silver. The new version substitutes 950 palladium for 950 platinum and 3% palladium sterling silver for platinum-enhanced sterling silver.

Normally, Ashes and Snow Mokume requires more time to make because of the number of steps and time involved in bonding the platinum layers to the platinum-enhanced sterling silver layers. Platinum has a much lower thermal expansion than sterling silver and if the Mokume is cooled too rapidly, the bonds break. Therefore, it is necessary to cool this Mokume composition very slowly after each annealing and forging step (Binnion, Nyce and Grice, Santa Fe Symposium, 2006). Bonding 950 palladium to sterling silver is not at all difficult and has been done by other Mokume artists so this is a logical extension of the prior art and lowers the cost of our Ashes and Snow Mokume.

We will continue to offer both versions of Ashes and Snow Mokume. Both versions will be available in all of our Twist (pictured above), Contour, and Banded pattern Mokume wedding and engagement rings.

Platinum is a luxury metal and has been extensively marketed by the Platinum Guild as the metal to use in engagement and wedding rings. In recent years, it has become the metal of choice for couples getting married. However, in 2008, when the price of platinum topped $2200 per troy ounce, a number of precious metal companies began developing and marketing palladium alloys to replace platinum as the metal of choice for wedding rings; they have been very successful.

Platinum has a higher density than any other precious metal, does not tarnish, and has a beautiful luster. Palladium is in the Platinum Group metals and it’s color, luster, and mechanical properties are similar to platinum. The main difference between platinum and palladium is their respective densities (21.46 grams per cubic centimeter for platinum vs 12.023 grams per cubic centimeter for palladium). Platinum rings feel much heavier than palladium rings. But, in our Mokume compositions, these density differences are not quite as noticeable.

Price is another divergent factor. For reference, the spot price of platinum on August 19, 2009 was nearly fives times higher than palladium ($1221 vs. $268). The price difference between the two versions of Ashes and Snow Mokume, now known as Ashes and Snow – Platinum and Ashes and Snow – Palladium, is significant. So, for those watching their wedding and engagement budgets, this new composition makes economic sense. Request a quote on both Ashes and Snow compositions and compare for yourself.