andrew nyce designs
Damascus Ring Design Guide
mokume gane mokume gane mokume gane mokume gane
Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
Essentials Collection Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
Embraced Collection Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
Leading Edge Collection Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
Meridian Collection Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
Engagement Collection Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
Men's Collection Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
BOLD Men's Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
JET Men's Damascus Stainless Steel Rings
JET Racer Men's Damascus Stainless Steel Rings

 

Selecting a Damascus Pattern

Damascus Stainless Steel is made by welding and forging layers of two different stainless steels into bars or tubes. After patterning techniques are applied, the final product is etched to reveal the distinctive pattern of those layers.

All of our Damascus Stainless Steel is composed of austenitic (304L/361L) stainless steel. Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following Damascus patterns:

 
Starlight Damascus Stainless Steel Starlight possesses a dense pattern with a distinct star or cross shape.
Quasar Damascus Stainless Steel Quasar is similar to the Starlight pattern but has fewer layers of stainless steel. Thus, the pattern is broader. It is similar in appearance to Mokume Gane patterns.
Wood Grain Damascus Stainless Steel Wood Grain mimics the texture of exotic wood grains.
Sea Breeze Damascus Stainless Steel Sea Breeze is a series of rolling, rounded shapes with a bolder and wider pattern than our other Damascus patterns.
Remington Damascus Stainless Steel Remington is a derivative of the Sea Breeze pattern with a linear sequence of small circles and ovals that resembles a series of bull's eye.
Thor Damascus Stainless Steel Thor evokes the Norse god of thunder and lightning with its stylized lightning bolt pattern.
Safari Damascus Stainless Steel Safari has disinctive animal print markings symmetrically around the surface.
Art Deco Damascus Stainless Steel Art Deco has a bold, wide pattern with intersecting round and linear elements. Pattern is not symmetrical like Safari.
Woodcut Damascus Stainless Steel Woodcut pays homage to the thick, flowing lines of a woodcut print. The pattern reflects more Earthly forms such as the furrows in a freshly plowed field.
Cosmic Damascus Stainless Steel Cosmic mirrors the vast emptiness of space punctuated by striking and beautiful interstellar bodies. A wide, bold Damascus pattern.
Wave Rider Damascus Stainless Steel Wave Rider is a dense pattern illustrating the movement of breaking waves.
Celestial Damascus Stainless Steel Celestial is reminiscent of two cat's eye galaxies revolving around each other in a densely spaced pattern.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following Damascus Stainless Steel patterns:

  • Starlight
  • Quasar (New)
  • Wood Grain
  • Sea Breeze
  • Remington
  • Thor (New)
  • Safari (New)
  • Art Deco
  • Woodcut
  • Cosmic

The following patterns are Special Editions and are available in limited quanities. When the supply runs out, the patterns will no lomnger be offered:

  • Wave Rider (New)
  • Celestial
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Selecting Ring Shape

Andrew Nyce Designs offers two main ring shapes: round and soft square. Round is a traditional shape and the most popular. The soft square is a gentle flattening of the round shape. Soft square is unique in both look and feel.

A third shape, the Cathedral, is available for engagement rings. A gemstone setting is held in place on top of the liner and between the two open ends of the band. The Cathedral shape always has a liner as part of the ring design.

 
round ring shape
Round
soft square ring shape
Soft Square
cathedral engagement ring shape
Cathedral
(Engagement)
Ring shapes available for customized Damascus Stainless Steel wedding bands and engagement rings.
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Selecting Ring Dimensions

Customization of your Damascus Stainless Steel ring includes selecting not only the Damascus pattern and ring shape, but also the dimensions of the ring, including ring size, overall width of ring, and ring thickness.

Ring Size

Andrew Nyce Designs offers Damascus Stainless Steel rings in sizes 4 to 13. You will need to provide your ring measurement in quarter-size increments. Requests for rings smaller than size 4 or larger than size 13 are handled on a case-by-case basis.

 

The overall width and thickness of the ring should conform to your finger size and shape.

Other factors for determining optimal overall width and thickness include whether the ring has additional design elements (edges or channels) or a surface contour and Comfort Fit.

Overall Width of Ring

For Damascus Stainless Steel rings, Andrew Nyce Designs offers overall ring widths from 4mm to 11mm in 1mm increments. Overall ring width includes the width of both the Damascus Stainless Steel band and any design elements selected (edges, liners or channels). If you are interested in an overall ring width of 8mm or more, you should have your ring size measured using a wide ring gauge.

As shown in the diagram on the right, if you select a ring with an overall width of 6mm, the width of the Damascus Stainless Steel band will vary depending upon whether or not you select additional design elements.

Overall ring widths smaller than 4mm, while available upon request, do not allow the Damascus Stainless Steel pattern to be adequately shown and are not recommended.

overall ring width
Band only
overall ring width with edges
Band with Edges or Channel
overall ring width with edges
Band with Wide Edges or Channel

Ring Thickness

Ring thickness includes the thickness of both the band of Damascus Stainless Steel and any ring design element selected, such as a liner or channel. Optimal ring thickness depends upon the size and shape of your fingers as well as the overall ring width. For example, a ring with thickness of 3mm would be very uncomfortable in a small (size 5) and wide (10mm) ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs generally will provide recommendations to you for ring thickness. Optimal ring thickness ranges between 1.5mm and 2.25mm thick for all ring sizes.

 
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Selecting Ring Design Elements

Several design elements can be incorporated into the design of your customized Damascus Stainless Steel ring. Each adds its own sense of aesthetic value to the ring and accentuates the Damascus Stainless Steel band. Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following ring design elements:

 
ring with liner
Ring with Liner
Liners are inner bands of precious metal alloy attached to the inside of the ring. A liner hides the Damascus Stainless Steel pattern on the underside of the ring. Liners provide a clean, elegant look for your ring.
ring with edges
Ring with Edges
Edges are rings of precious metal alloy attached to the sides of the ring. Edges frame the Damascus Stainless Steel like a picture. Edges provide a defined, elegant look for your ring.
ring with channel
Ring with Channel
Channels are single-piece precious metal alloy structures having inner bands with edges that embrace the band of Damascus Stainless Steel. Channels provide the aesthetic appeal of both liners and edges.
ring with inlaid band
Ring with Inlaid Band
Inlaid Bands are a thin band of precious metal alloy that is inlaid into the surface of the Damascus Stainless Steel band.

You may opt to select a ring that does not have any ring design elements. In this case, the Damascus Stainless Steel pattern will be visible from all sides of the ring, inside and out.

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Selecting a Ring Liner

A liner draws attention to the Damascus Stainless Steel pattern on the top surface of the ring while hiding the pattern on the underside of the ring.

A liner is formed from a tube of precious metal alloy. The tube is placed inside the band of Damascus Stainless Steel and attached to it. A liner generally is the same width as the band of Damascus Stainless Steel. Having a liner does not affect ring size.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers ring liners in the following materials:

  • Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver
  • 950 Palladium
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K White Gold
  • 14K Palladium White Gold
  • 18K Red Gold
  • 18K Royal Yellow Gold
  • 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 950 Platinum

If you opt to have edges in addition to your liner, the edges can be made either from the same metal alloy or from one complementary in color.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the option of adding a liner to its Damascus Stainless Steel rings.

You have the option of adding a liner to all Essentials and Meridian rings, as well as, select Men's and Engagement rings.

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Selecting Ring Edges

Edges enable the Damascus Stainless Steel pattern to stand out by framing it between two design elements of precious metal alloys that are complementary in color.

Edges are formed from narrow rings of precious metal alloy. The narrow ring is attached to the side of the band of Damascus Stainless Steel.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers ring edges in the following materials:

  • 950 Palladium
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K White Gold
  • 14K Palladium White Gold
  • 18K Red Gold
  • 18K Royal Yellow Gold
  • 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 950 Platinum

Andrew Nyce Designs creates edges that are in proportion to the width of the band of Damascus Stainless Steel. The Damascus Stainless Steel band generally is 6 to 7 times wider than an edge. The standard edge width is 0.75mm, but may range between 0.75mm and 1.0mm.

There are two options for the shape of edges: Square or Rounded.

The top and bottom surfaces of square edges are contoured to match the surfaces of the ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the option of adding edges to its Damascus Stainless Steel rings.

To add edges to a Damascus ring, please use the Damascus Custom Quote Form.

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Selecting a Ring Channel

A channel draws attention to the Damascus Stainless Steel pattern by embracing it in precious metal alloys that are complementary in color.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers ring channels in the following materials:

  • Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver
  • 950 Palladium
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K White Gold
  • 14K Palladium White Gold
  • 18K Red Gold
  • 18K Royal Yellow Gold
  • 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 950 Platinum
  • Stainless Steel (Men's BOLD Collection only)

A channel is formed from a wide tube of precious metal alloy. The tube is placed inside the band of Damascus Stainless Steel and attached to it. The ends of the tube are forged around the sides of the Damascus Stainless Steel band to form channel edges. Having a channel does not affect ring size.

Andrew Nyce Designs creates channel edges that are in proportion to the width of the band of Damascus Stainless Steel. Channel edges generally are 1mm or wider.

There are two options for the shape of channel edges: Square or Rounded.

Andrew Nyce Designs has crafted two collections of Damascus Stainless Steel rings with channels.

To view rings with channels, select this link for The Embraced Collection of Damascus Stainless Steel Rings

To view men's rings with channels, select this link for The Men's Collection of Damascus Stainless Steel Rings

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Selecting Ring Profile and Comfort Fit

One of the final steps for making a ring is applying surface contours to the top of ring profile and a Comfort Fit to the inside surface of the ring. The Top of Ring profile and Comfort Fit are independent of each other, but work together to provide overall comfort and fit.

Comfort Fits are standard on all Andrew Nyce Designs rings unless specifically stated otherwise.

 

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following options for Top of Ring profiles:

  • Domed Across the Top
  • Flat Across the Top
  • Half Round

The amount of doming you choose is dependent upon on the overall width and thickness of the ring.

Comfort dictates that Half Round rings only can be selected on rings with narrow overall widths. For example, a 4mm wide Half Round ring would be 2mm thick while an 8mm wide Half Round ring would be 4mm thick. A 4mm thick ring would be extremely uncomrtable to wear and undesirable. A Domed profile would be more appropriate for wider rings.

domed top of ring profile
Domed Profile
flat top of ring profile
Flat Profile
half round top of ring profile
Half Round Profile

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following options for Comfort Fit:

  • Comfort Fit
  • No Comfort Fit

Comfort Fit rings are designed with a rounded inside. Comfort Fit rings slide on with ease and fit more comfortably on your finger. We offer the option of either selecting a Comfort fit or not having one. No Comfort Fit is essentially a flat inner ring profile. Comfort Fit provides varying degrees of rounding on the inside of the ring. The degree of Comfort Fit is proportional to the size and width of the ring.

comfort fit
Comfort Fit
no comfort fit
No Comfort Fit
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Selecting Ring Surface Finish

Andrew Nyce Designs offers three surface finishes for Damascus Stainless Steel: matte and polished. In addition, Black Oxide (BO) is an optional coating treatment.

Matte Surface Finish

A matte surface finish is easy to maintain yourself using a ring care kit or simple materials from a hardware store. The surface finish can be restored in 60 seconds.

Polished Surface Finish

A polished finish is is easy to maintain yourself using a ring care kit or simple materials from a hardware store. The surface finish can be restored in 60 seconds.

Black Oxide Coating

A Black Oxide (BO) coating is a tightly-adhered, durable oxide coating that lends a defining, complementary black appearance to the etched surface of the Damascus pattern.

surface finish for damascus steel rings
Matte Finsh
Polished Finish
Black Oxide Coating

Art Deco I Damascus without Black Oxide Coating
Art Deco without BO Coatings
Sea Breeze Damascus without Black Oxide Coating
Sea Breeze without BO Coating
Art Deco I Damascus with Black Oxide Coating
Art Deco with BO Coating
Sea Breeze Damascus with Black Oxide Coating
Sea Breeze with BO Coating
A comparison of Damascus patterns with and without Black Oxide (BO) coatings.
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Selecting an Inlaid Band

A precious metal alloy inlaid band encircles surface of the ring, complementing the Damascus Stainless Steel pattern.

Cosmic, Sea Breeze, and Starlight Damascus patterns are offered with Meridian Standard and JET Racer Wide rings. All Damascus patterns are available for JET Racer Narrow, JET Racer Ultra-Narrow, and Meridian Ultra rings.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers inlaid bands in the following materials:

  • 950 Palladium
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K White Gold
  • 14K Palladium White Gold
  • 18K Red Gold
  • 18K Royal Yellow Gold
  • 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 22K Yellow Gold
  • 950 Platinum

For JET Racer rings, there are three inlaid band width options: ultra-narrow, narrow and wide. Ultra-narrow precious metal alloy inlaid bands are less than 15% the width of the Damascus band. Narrow precious metal alloy inlaid bands are approximately 25% the width of the Damascus band. Wide precious metal alloy inlaid bands are approximately 45% the width of the Damascus band. Wide inlaid bands interrupt more of the Damascus pattern than a narrow inlaid band. Ultra-narrow allows the most Damascus pattern to be visible.

For the Meridian Collection, there are two inlaid band width options: ultra-narrow and standard. Standard inlaid bands are approximately 25% the width of the Damascus band. Ultra-narrow inlaid bands are less than 20% the width of the Damascus band.

There are three surface finish options for the inlaid bands: hand-textured, soft matte, and polished surface. Hand-texturing is applied in a mirco-hammered pattern that visually joins the Damascus pattern on either side of the inlaid band. Hand-texturing is not available on JET Racer Ultra-Narrow.

 
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Selecting Gemstones

Andrew Nyce Designs offers diamonds, as well as, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and other gemstones. With diamonds, in particular, it is important to identify and choose those characteristics that have the most impact on aesthetic quality and budget.

Diamond Shape

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following diamond shapes: Round, Oval, Emerald, Princess, and Marquise. You are not limited to these selections and can order any shape you like.

 
 round diamond shape
Round
oval diamond shape
Oval
marquise diamond shape
Marquise
princess diamond shape
Princess
emerald diamond shape
Emerald
Popular diamond shapes available for customized engagement rings and anniversary bands.

Diamond Color

As rated on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale, diamond color ranges from D which is totally colorless to Z which is a pale yellow or brown color. Diamonds that are of the very highest purity are totally colorless, and appear a bright white; these are the most rare and the most valuable.

Diamond Clarity

As rated on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale, diamond clarity is divided into six categories and eleven grades ranging from those diamonds that are internally flawless (no inclusions or blemishes) to those that have obvious inclusions that can be easily seen with the naked eye. Diamonds with higher clarity grades (i.e., the fewest inclusions/blemishes) have the highest value.

Diamond Weight

The traditional unit of measure for diamonds is the carat. The cost per carat increases with respect to carat size because larger, rough diamonds are more rare. Andrew Nyce Designs offers diamonds from 0.25 to 2 carats in weight; larger size diamonds are available upon request.

To access more detailed information on helping you choose the diamond that is right for you, select this link on Diamonds.

 
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Selecting a Gemstone Setting

Traditional Gemstone Settings

Andrew Nyce Designs offers gemstone settings for both engagement rings and anniversary bands. Gemstone settings come in a variety of designs and materials. The settings are laser-welded to the ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers gemstone settings in the following materials:

  • 14K and 18K White Gold
  • 14K and 18K Yellow Gold
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K and 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 950 Palladium
  • 950 Platinum

There are numerous gemstone setting design options. The following settings are recommended by Andrew Nyce Designs. You are not limited to these selections and can order any setting you like.

 
round tapered bezel setting
Round Tapered Bezel
half bezel setting
Half Bezel
marquise setting
Marquise
princess tapered solid bezel setting
Princess Tapered Solid Bezel
princess half bezel setting
Princess Half Bezel
princess pre-notched bar setting
Princess Pre-notched Bar
princess setting
Princess
princess tall setting
Princess Tall
emerald solid base setting
Emerald Solid Base

Popular gemstone settings available for customized engagement rings and anniversary bands.

Even if you are not selecting an engagement ring or anniversary band, you still have the option of adding a diamond or other gemstone to your ring.

Channel and Flush Set Gemstones

One way to show your sense of personal style is to have your gemstone set into the band of the ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers both Flush Set and Channel Set gemstones; no gemstone settings are required for these options. Smaller gemstones, starting at 0.015 carat up to 0.10 carat, are seated in holes or grooves drilled into the surface of the ring. The width of the ring dictates the maximum size diamond that can be flush or channel set.

Gemstones can be either Round or Square in shape. For Damascus rings, channel or flush diamonds typically are set into an 18K White Gold insert.

There are three options for arranging Flush Set gemstones on the surface of the ring:

  • Center-Aligned - gemstones are evenly spaced and follow an axis around the center of the ring
  • Random - gemstones are spaced evenly in a random pattern
  • Custom - gemstones can be placed on the ring with any pattern, spacing or grouping
 
flush set diamond
Flush Set
channel set diamond
Channel Set
On the left, a Flush Set diamond in a Damascus Stainless Steel Band. On the right, Channel Set diamonds in a Mokume Gane band.
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Request a Quote on Custom-Designed Ring

Once you have decided on the design of your customized Damascus Stainless Steel ring, you can request a quote from Andrew Nyce Designs. I would be happy to work with you on any aspect of your ring design and to offer my recommendations for creating an optimal ring design.

 
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Which Andrew Nyce Designs Collection is Right For You?

In addition to custom designing your own Damascus Stainless Steel ring, you have the option of selecting a ring from one of the Andrew Nyce Designs Collections. Which one is right for you?

The Essentials Collection

For those who prefer a classic, uncomplicated look, The Essentials Collection is the least elaborate design. The distinctive Damascus pattern is the star and can be seen throughout the ring, including the inside. The profile is typically domed across the top to maintain the rugged beauty of this collection. View The Essentials Collection.

The Embraced Collection

By enveloping a Damascus Stainless Steel band in a channel of Gold, Platinum or Palladium, we have created The Embraced Collection. A band as unique and eternal as your love cradled in precious metal makes this collection a favorite for wedding and commitment sets. Channel edges touching the skin can be rounded for any level of Comfort fit. View The Embraced Collection.

The Leading Edge Collection

If a prominently curved ring surface is more your style, the Leading Edge Collection is the right match. Your favorite Damascus Stainless Steel band is outlined with a liner and rounded edges made from Gold, Platinum, or Palladium to create a three-dimensional work of art. A domed profile is standard for Leading Edge rings and adds even more depth. View The Leading Edge Collection.

The Meridian Collection

The Meridian Collection takes the concept of wrapped around your finger a step further. A narrow inlaid band of Gold, Platinum or Palladium intersects the surface of the ring. This meridian neatly bisects the Damascus pattern. View The Meridian Collection.

The Engagement Collection

All rings styles (Essentials, Embraced, Meridian, Tiered) can be enhanced with a diamond setting for the perfect one-of-a-kind engagement ring or anniversary gift. Additionally, the Cathedral design adds a dynamic flair that results in a visually stunning engagement ring. Wedding or commitment bands can be created at the same time to match your engagement ring. View The Engagement Collection.

The Men’s Collection

For the man who likes to make a bold statement, the BOLD, JET and JET Racer Damascus Stainless Steel bands set the Men’s Collection apart. Rings made from this "metal of legends" are sophisticated, yet rugged and distinctly masculine.  They radiate the power required to forge them and the strength that makes them so durable. These pieces are the perfect gift for Father’s Day, academic or military graduation, promotions, political appointments, ordination, or other personal and professional milestones. View The Men's Collection.

 
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