• Selecting Mokume Gane Color Combination
• Selecting Ring Shape
• Selecting Ring Dimensions
• Selecting Ring Design Elements
  • Selecting a Ring Liner
  • Selecting Ring Edges
  • Selecting a Ring Channel
• Selecting Ring Profile and Comfort Fit
• Selecting Ring Surface Finish
• Selecting an Inlaid Band
• Selecting Gemstones
• Selecting a Gemstone Setting
• Request a Quote on a Custom-Designed Mokume Gane Ring
• Which Andrew Nyce Designs Collection is Right For You?

Selecting a Mokume Gane Color Combination

Mokume Gane is made by forging and rolling alloy sheets made from precious metals including Gold, Platinum, Palladium, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver.

Andrew Nyce Designs selects all of its Gold alloys for the vibrancy and deepness of their color. As a result, the contrast between the Gold alloys and the Platinum, Palladium, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver is maximized for each uniquely designed Mokume Gane color combination.

These color combinations evoke images of trade wind kissed tropical sunsets over a calm sea, the warm glow of a majestic desert sunrise on a vast horizon, the silvery shimmer of a crisp, swirling mist rising from an arctic glacier, or the subtle hues of the Arizona desert.

We produce all of our Mokume Gane in-house. Presently, Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following two-, three- and four-tone Mokume Gane color combinations:

Selecting Ring Shape

Andrew Nyce Designs offers two main ring shapes: round and soft square. Round is a traditional shape and the most popular. The soft square is a gentle flattening of the round shape. Soft square is unique in both look and feel.

A third shape, the Cathedral, is available for engagement rings. A gemstone setting is held in place on top of the liner and between the two open ends of the band. The Cathedral shape always has a liner as part of the ring design.

Selecting Ring Dimensions

Customization of your Mokume Gane ring includes selecting not only the color combination of the Mokume Gane precious metal alloys and ring shape, but also the dimensions of the ring, including ring size, overall width of ring, and ring thickness.

Ring Size

Andrew Nyce Designs offers Mokume Gane rings in sizes 5 to 12. You will need to provide your ring measurement in quarter-size increments. Requests for rings smaller than size 5 or larger than size 12 are handled on a case-by-case basis.

The overall width and thickness of the ring should conform to your finger size and shape.

Other factors for determining optimal overall width and thickness include whether the ring has additional design elements (edges or channels) or a surface contour and Comfort Fit.

Overall Width of Ring

For Mokume Gane rings, Andrew Nyce Designs offers overall ring widths from 4mm to 10mm in 1mm increments. Overall ring width includes the width of both the Mokume Gane band and any design elements selected (edges, liners or channels). If you are interested in an overall ring width of 8mm or more, you should have your ring size measured using a wide ring gauge.

As shown in the diagram on the right, if you select a ring with an overall width of 6mm, the width of the Mokume Gane band will vary depending upon whether or not you select additional design elements.

Overall ring widths smaller than 4mm, while available upon request, do not allow the Mokume Gane pattern to be adequately shown and are not recommended.

Ring Thickness

Ring thickness includes the thickness of both the band of Mokume Gane and any ring design element selected, such as a liner or channel. Optimal ring thickness depends upon the size and shape of your fingers as well as the overall ring width. For example, a ring with thickness of 3mm would be very uncomfortable in a small (size 5) and wide (10mm) ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs generally will provide recommendations to you for ring thickness. Optimal ring thickness ranges between 1.5mm and 2.25mm thick for all ring sizes.

Selecting Ring Design Elements

Several design elements can be incorporated into the design of your customized Mokume Gane ring. Each adds its own sense of aesthetic value to the ring and accentuates the Mokume Gane band. Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following ring design elements:

You may opt to select a ring that does not have any ring design elements. In this case, the Mokume Gane pattern will be visible from all sides of the ring, inside and out.

Andrew Nyce Designs has crafted a collection of Mokume Gane rings unadorned with any ring design options. To view these rings, select this link for The Essentials Collection of Mokume Gane Rings. 

Selecting a Ring Liner

A liner draws attention to the Mokume Gane pattern on the top surface of the ring while hiding the pattern on the underside of the ring.

A liner is formed from a tube of precious metal alloy. The tube is placed inside the band of Mokume Gane and attached to it. A liner generally is the same width as the band of Mokume Gane. Having a liner does not affect ring size.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers ring liners in the following materials:

• Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver
• 950 Palladium
• 14K Red Gold
• 14K White Gold
• 14K Palladium White Gold
• 18K Red Gold
• 18K Royal Yellow Gold
• 18K Palladium White Gold
• 950 Platinum

If you opt to have edges in addition to your liner, the edges can be made either from the same metal alloy or from one complementary in color.

In instances where you may have skin sensitivity issues, a liner forms a barrier that limits contact between your ring finger and the Mokume Gane alloys.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the option of adding a liner to its Mokume Gane rings.

You have the option of adding a liner to all Essentials, Meridian, and Wedding Sets rings, as well as, select Engagement rings.

Selecting Ring Edges

Edges enable the Mokume Gane pattern to stand out by framing it between two design elements of precious metal alloys that are complementary in color.

Edges are formed from narrow rings of precious metal alloy. The narrow ring is attached to the side of the band of Mokume Gane.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers ring edges in the following materials:

• 950 Palladium
• 14K Red Gold
• 14K White Gold
• 14K Palladium White Gold
• 18K Red Gold
• 18K Royal Yellow Gold
• 18K Palladium White Gold
• 950 Platinum

Andrew Nyce Designs creates edges that are in proportion to the width of the band of Mokume Gane. The Mokume Gane band generally is 6 to 7 times wider than an edge. The standard edge width is 0.75mm, but may range between 0.75mm and 1.0mm.

There are two options for the shape of edges: Square or Rounded.

The top and bottom surfaces of square edges are contoured to match the surfaces of the ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the option of adding edges to its Mokume Gane rings.

To add edges to a Mokume Gane ring, please use the Mokume Custom Quote Form.

Selecting a Ring Channel

A channel draws attention to the Mokume Gane pattern by embracing it in precious metal alloys that are complementary in color.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers ring channels in the following materials:

• Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver
• 950 Palladium
• 14K Red Gold
• 14K White Gold
• 14K Palladium White Gold
• 18K Red Gold
• 18K Royal Yellow Gold
• 18K Palladium White Gold
• 950 Platinum

A channel is formed from a wide tube of precious metal alloy. The tube is placed inside the band of Mokume Gane and attached to it. The ends of the tube are forged around the sides of the Mokume Gane band to form channel edges. Having a channel does not affect ring size.

Andrew Nyce Designs creates channel edges that are in proportion to the width of the band of Mokume Gane. Channel edges generally are 1mm or wider.

There are two options for the shape of channel edges: Square or Rounded.

In instances where you may have skin sensitivity issues, a channel forms a barrier that limits contact between your ring finger and the Mokume Gane alloys.

Selecting Ring Profile and Comfort Fit

One of the final steps for making a ring is applying surface contours to the top of ring profile and a Comfort Fit to the inside surface of the ring. The Top of Ring profile and Comfort Fit are independent of each other, but work together to provide overall comfort and fit. Thus, you may want to select both options in order to achieve optimal comfort and fit.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following options for Top of Ring profiles:

• Flat Across the Top
• Slightly Domed Across the Top
• Domed Across the Top
• Half Round

Examples of each ring profile are shown to the right as ring cross-sections.

The amount of doming you choose is dependent upon on the overall width and thickness of the ring. For example, a 4mm wide Half Round ring would be 2mm thick and an 8mm wide Half Round ring would be 4mm thick. A 4mm thick ring is undesirable, so a Top of Ring Profile with less doming would be more appropriate.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following options for Comfort Fit:

• None
• Slightly Rounded
• Medium
• Full

Examples of each Comfort Fit are shown to the right as ring cross-sections.

A Comfort Fit provides a doming effect for the inside surface of the ring; the inside edges of the ring are rounded. A Comfort Fit provides a more comfortable fit with a looser feel for your finger.

The rounding is most pronounced in a Full Comfort Fit. You can have a ring with both a snug fit and a Full Comfort Fit by ordering a ring slightly smaller than your measured ring size. Another option is to select a ring with either Slightly Rounded Comfort Fit where the rounding is less pronounced or a ring with No Comfort Fit at all. The Medium Comfort Fit is used only for rings with an overall width of 8mm or more.

Selecting Ring Surface Finish

The sometimes subtle, sometimes dramatic contrasts between the adjacent colors in a Mokume Gane band depend upon the surface finish you choose. Andrew Nyce Designs offers two surface finishes for Mokume Gane rings: matte and etched. The matte surface finish is applied to all Mokume Gane rings. Etching is an optional surface treatment.

Matte Surface Finish

The highest contrast between the adjacent Gold, Silver, Platinum, or Palladium alloys in your Mokume Gane ring is obtained with a matte surface finish. A matte surface finish is easy to maintain yourself using a ring care kit or simple materials from a hardware store. The surface finish can be restored in 60 seconds.

Etched Finish

An etched finish is achieved by using chemical solvents to selectively etch away material thereby providing a much greater contrast between the Mokume Gane precious metal alloys. An etched ring also has a matte surface finish and also can be maintained easily yourself.

Selecting an Inlaid Band

A precious metal alloy inlaid band encircles surface of the ring, complementing the Mokume pattern and color palette.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers inlaid bands in the following materials:

• 950 Palladium
• 14K Red Gold
• 14K White Gold
• 14K Palladium White Gold
• 18K Red Gold
• 18K Royal Yellow Gold
• 18K Palladium White Gold
• 22K Yellow Gold
• 950 Platinum

For the Meridian Collection, an ultra-narrow precious metal inlaid band is available. This band is less than 20% the width of the Mokume band.

There are two surface finish options for the inlaid bands: soft matte, and polished surface.

Selecting Gemstones

Andrew Nyce Designs offers diamonds, as well as, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and other gemstones. With diamonds, in particular, it is important to identify and choose those characteristics that have the most impact on aesthetic quality and budget.

Diamond Shape

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following diamond shapes: Round, Oval, Emerald, Princess, and Marquise. You are not limited to these selections and can order any shape you like.

Diamond Color

As rated on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale, diamond color ranges from D which is totally colorless to Z which is a pale yellow or brown color. Diamonds that are of the very highest purity are totally colorless, and appear a bright white; these are the most rare and the most valuable.

Diamond Clarity

As rated on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale, diamond clarity is divided into six categories and eleven grades ranging from those diamonds that are internally flawless (no inclusions or blemishes) to those that have obvious inclusions that can be easily seen with the naked eye. Diamonds with higher clarity grades (i.e., the fewest inclusions/blemishes) have the highest value.

Diamond Weight

The traditional unit of measure for diamonds is the carat. The cost per carat increases with respect to carat size because larger, rough diamonds are more rare. Andrew Nyce Designs offers diamonds from 0.25 to 2 carats in weight; larger size diamonds are available upon request.

To access more detailed information on helping you choose the diamond that is right for you, select this link on Diamonds.

Selecting a Gemstone Setting

Traditional Gemstone Settings

Andrew Nyce Designs offers gemstone settings for both engagement rings and anniversary bands. Gemstone settings come in a variety of designs and materials. The settings are laser-welded to the ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers gemstone settings in the following materials:

• 14K and 18K White Gold
• 14K and 18K Yellow Gold
• 14K Red Gold
• 14K and 18K Palladium White Gold
• 950 Palladium
• 950 Platinum

There are numerous gemstone setting design options. The following settings are recommended by Andrew Nyce Designs. You are not limited to these selections and can order any setting you like.

Even if you are not selecting an engagement ring or anniversary band, you still have the option of adding a diamond or other gemstone to your ring.

Channel and Flush Set Gemstones

One way to show your sense of personal style is to have your gemstone set into the band of the ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers both Flush Set and Channel Set gemstones; no gemstone settings are required for these options. Smaller gemstones, starting at 0.015 carat up to 0.10 carat, are seated in holes or grooves drilled into the surface of the ring. The width of the ring dictates the maximum size diamond that can be flush or channel set.

Gemstones can be either Round or Square in shape. For Damascus rings, channel or flush diamonds typically are set into an 18K White Gold insert.

There are three options for arranging Flush Set gemstones on the surface of the ring:

• Center-Aligned - gemstones are evenly spaced and follow an axis around the center of the ring
• Random - gemstones are spaced evenly in a random pattern
• Custom - gemstones can be placed on the ring with any pattern, spacing or grouping

Request a Quote on Custom-Designed Ring

Once you have decided on the design of your customized Mokume Gane ring, you can request a quote from Andrew Nyce Designs. I would be happy to work with you on any aspect of your ring design and to offer my recommendations for creating an optimal ring design.

• Quote on Custom-Designed Mokume Gane Ring
• Quote on Custom-Designed Mokume Gane Engagement Ring

Which Andrew Nyce Designs Collection is Right For You?

In addition to custom designing your own Mokume Gane ring, you have the option of selecting a ring from one of the Andrew Nyce Designs Collections. Which one is right for you?

The Essentials Collection

For those who prefer a classic, uncomplicated look, The Essentials Collection is the least elaborate design. The unique pattern of intertwined precious metals is the star of this Mokume Gane piece and can be seen throughout the ring, including the inside. The profile is typically domed across the top to maintain the simple beauty of this collection. View The Essentials Collection.

The Embraced Collection

By enveloping a Mokume Gane band in a channel of Gold, Platinum or Palladium, we have created The Embraced Collection. The romantic concept of your favorite color combination forged into a one-of-a-kind pattern permanently cradled in precious metal makes this collection a favorite for wedding and commitment sets. Channel edges touching the skin can be rounded for any level of Comfort fit. View The Embraced Collection.

The Leading Edge Collection

If a prominently curved ring surface is more your style, the Leading Edge Collection is the right match. Your favorite Mokume Gane band is outlined with a liner and rounded edges made from Gold, Platinum, or Palladium to create a three-dimensional work of art. A domed profile is standard for Leading Edge rings and adds even more depth. View The Leading Edge Collection.

The Meridian Collection

The Meridian Collection takes the concept of wrapped around your finger a step further. A narrow inlaid band of Gold, Platinum or Palladium intersects the surface of the ring. This meridian neatly bisects the elegant Mokume Gane pattern. View The Meridian Collection.

The Engagement Collection

Enhance a simple, yet elegant round Mokume Gane band with a diamond setting for the perfect one-of-a-kind engagement ring or anniversary gift. Or try our unusual Cathedral design which adds a dynamic flair that results in a visually stunning engagement ring. Wedding or commitment bands can be created at the same time to match your engagement ring. View The Engagement Collection.

The Wedding Sets Collection

By matching the patterns for these one-of-a-kind wedding sets and anniversary bands as closely as possible, the rings reflect the lives of two individuals journeying together along a shared path of life. View The Wedding Sets Collection.

The Men's Collection

For the man who seeks innovation and style, our new Mokume Men's rings provide the best attributes of Mokume Gane and Damascus Stainless Steel in one ring. View The Men's Collection.